1. Point wheels straight ahead and disconnect battery or pull horn fuse before starting removal of the old wheel so horn won't short out and blow during installation.

2. Remove horn mechanism. This is normally done by one or more of the following steps:

a) Press down on horn cap or ring and turn.

b) Remove emblem cap from its snapped-in condition by grasping it and pulling toward you, or pry loose. c) Horn ring and emblem may be secured by screws which are concealed in rear side of wheel spokes.

If one of the above operations has not removed all of the horn parts, it will have exposed the remaining screws to permit easy removal of the balance of such parts.

3. Remove nut or bolt holding wheel to shaft.

4. Mark shaft as to which is the top of the wheel.

5. With conventional puller, (or GRANT puller 5891), use the two tapped holes which you will find in the hub of old wheel to pull off the steering shaft.

If a puller is not available, you may improvise an efficient one to do the job. By drilling two holes of the proper size in a short steel bar and using two screws of the proper length, you can tighten them and pull the old wheel very easily.

6. If your old wheel has a turn indicator cam, remove this part and reinstall in the same position on back of custom hub. Generally this part is affixed to the steering wheel with screws or clamped on by spring tension. NOTE: Some cams are molded into the old wheel and are not removeable, use roll pin(s) provided in kit for these applications. See enclosed roll pin instructions.

Apply grease from enclosed capsules to cover the copper contact surface on custom hub. This will reduce wear on the parts and does not interfere with the electrical circuit.

7. When using kit number 3249, install tubular metal sleeve over shaft. NOTE: Sleeve should fit freely and slide down until it bottoms. On some models the plastic turn signal mechanism may prevent it from bottoming or fit snugly against its sides. If either condition exists, do not use sleeve, it is not required.

(A) Note Ford special instruction notice on reverse side of this form regarding stub on end of shaft.

8. Position hub on splined shaft observing that "top" is located in accordance with the mark which you made in step No. 4.

9. Position post cover and wheel using the three shoulder bolts provided, but do not tighten them.

NOTE: When using kit 3294 on older Fords. If there is a gap between the post cover and the column, there is an easy adjustment that can be made. Loosen the bolts under the dash that hold the column in position, move the column housing up or down as needed leaving about a 1/8" gap and then retighten these bolts securely.

10.Check wheel for position, and if correct, install the wheel retainer nut and tighten securely.

11.Remove shoulder bolts. See reverse side for pictorial representation of the remaining assembly procedures.

GENERAL NOTES

When tightening the three shoulder bolts, please keep in mind that they are not meant to hold the wheel to the hub, but only to position the wheel to the hub. The wheel retainer nut, if properly tightened, will firmly hold the hub/wheel assembly to the steering shaft. It is important that excessive torque not be applied to these bolts, or the contact plate may fracture or distort, causing a possible malfunction in the horn contact mechanism. Not to mention this may cause damage to the threads in the hub.

TORQUE REQUIREMENTS

SHOULDER BOLTS 10-12 FT/LBS

STEERING SHAFT NUT 25-30 FT/LBS

12.Position spring on nut. You may find tape a help. Place horn cap in position by aligning dimples with reliefs in fiber material and push until dimples pass fiber. Turn cap left or right until tight (1/4"-1/2").

13.Reconnect battery or replace fuse and enjoy your new wheel.

Rev. 9/99 by J.F. 97504-00-01